How Isaac Sultan Cohen Champions, Preserves, and Lives Independent Watchmaking

It has always been stories that drew Isaac Sultan Cohen to the things that he loves most. From paintings, to new philanthropic undertakings, or a uniquely crafted timepiece, Isaac Sultan Cohen has always been a person who pays attention to details. Although it has become common practice in the collecting world to pursue mainstream, already established brands, Isaac Sultan Cohen is driven by a passion ignited by meaning. This is one of the reasons why in horology, it is the world of independent watchmakers that most appeals to him, with each timepiece telling a deeply personal story. He has since dedicated himself to preserving the legacy of the independent watchmaking artisans who defy standard mass production in favour of projects that impact the way we see beauty.

Sultan Cohen, also a collector of contemporary art, explains that his love for independent watchmakers is a result of the way in which their dedication to artistry has withstood the pressures of an industry which has come to be defined by mass production. “There’s something incredibly unique about a human watchmaker such as Philippe Dufour, not a machine, spending months, even years, perfecting a single timepiece that is the only one that makes it to market,” he reflects. “The beauty of such a piece is not defined by branding or hype; it wouldn’t be far-fetched to say that being part of such a process isn’t possible without putting more than a little of one’s soul into the craft.”

Dufour, indeed one of the most revered independent watchmakers today, is known for employing traditional techniques which take years to perfect, along with unparalleled finishings. “Owning a Dufour is like having a piece of horological history”, Isaac Sultan Cohen says. “A Rolex, and Omega, these are pieces of jewellery as well as instruments of time. Dufour on the other hand, makes masterpieces,” he emphasizes. “And when you have someone preserving a craft for generations to come which is becoming increasingly rare, that for me is something worthy of my support.”

Another figure which stands out among the independent watchmakers which Isaac Sultan Cohen collects is François-Paul Journe. “Those who know my taste in art know that I cannot resist a contrarian, so to speak. If you have the guts to swim against the tide, you have my attention and that is what interested me about Journe’s approach to watchmaking which is both meticulous but also, rebellious,” Sultan Cohen explains. “He believes in his work in a way that I haven’t seen among all watchmakers. Using methods that are quite different than those used by the industry, he refuses to compromise on independence. Also, believe it or not, every component, every movement, is developed in-house”.

Indeed, Journe became one of the industry’s most sought-after independent makers of timepieces as a result of his philosophy and dedication to creating watches that balance precision with beauty, and don’t suffer from the cumbersome constraints of corporate oversight. Isaac Sultan Cohen, who is also an avid philanthropist, believes that there is a parallel between Journe’s approach and to his own philanthropic work, where he is dedicated to supporting causes that may not yet have the largest platform, but hold immense personal value. “My appreciation for Journe’s work, aside from the fact that he makes stunning pieces, is also about supporting those who refuses to sacrifice vision for mass approval.”

Daniel Roth, the third independent watchmaker who Isaac Sultan Cohen follows closely, represents another aspect of independent watchmaking, the pursuit of elegance through undeniable technical excellence. Roth has been considered a pioneer of the independent movement since he began manufacturing in 1989, develops distinctive watches that carry a one-of-a-kind, and easily recognisable, design language.

“What brought me to Roth’s work at the beginning, and I have been following him far before the company was acquired by Bulgari, was his quiet confidence,” says Isaac Sultan Cohen. “What stands out to me with his pieces are the fact that they truly define what it means to have craftsmanship, even though they are different.” This is an ethos which aligns with Sultan Cohen’s broader collecting philosophy in art as well as in watches—an appreciation for quality and significance over mainstream appeal. “What makes Roth’s designs timeless is the fact that they don’t try to be anything other than what they are, if that makes sense.”

Looking beyond his collection, Isaac Sultan Cohen believes that he has a role not only as a collector, but also as a custodian of independent watchmaking. “We need to ensure that the legacy of master watchmakers continues,” he says. “The world needs more independent creators—in watchmaking, in art, and in philanthropy. We cannot risk losing something this irreplaceable.”

What comes next? In the world of horology, top of Isaac Sultan Cohen’s agenda is ensuring that the techniques of masters like Dufour, Journe, and Roth live on. “More people need to understand and appreciate the artistry behind these timepieces. You don’t need to be able to afford a Monet or a Van Gough, to appreciate its significance and the contribution of the artist to the legacy of art”.

If he had to put it in one sentence, watch collecting for Isaac Sultan Cohen is about preserving a centuries-old craft and celebrating the individuals who dedicate their lives to perfecting it. In art, as in philanthropy and horology, Isaac Sultan Cohen always chooses patience, attention to detail, and independence.